A Pescatarian in Paris: Top 5 Dishes

France is often lovingly described as a land of wonderful gastronomic experiences: cassoulet, a casserole of white beans, duck legs and pork; poulet basquaise, tender chicken flavored with ham, tomatoes and peppers; boeuf bourguignon, cuts of beef slowly cooked in red wine and vegetables; the list goes on. Knowing of these traditional French dishes, I was a bit nervous to study abroad in Paris this past summer as a vegetarian. Of course, I knew I wouldn’t starve, but would I miss out on experiencing Paris to the fullest? Would I feel left out of a major part of their culture? 

Although I considered taking a break from being vegetarian for my two months abroad, I decided instead to add seafood to my diet and temporarily become pescatarian. Looking back at it now, I know I would have still had an amazing experience in Paris as a vegetarian, but being a pescatarian allowed me to feel closer to French culture, which is intimately tied to food. The following top five dishes will therefore (in no particular order) be a mix of vegetarian and pescatarian friendly foods commonly found in Paris, followed by a bonus vegan dish from London and a quick note on paying for studying abroad. (Grab a snack!) 

Yes, yes, escargot, the famous French dish that has the power to make both young children and full-grown adults grimace. Hesitant at first, I found that I actually quite liked escargot, so much so that I frequently ordered it to split with friends. Growing up in Maine cracking lobster and crab at family gatherings, I found that I enjoyed the somewhat awkward process of using a tong-like tool to grip each snail, followed by a small fork specially made to pull the snail out from its hiding place with a quick upwards motion. (Both of these tools are pictured above with the snails.) And the taste? Warm, soft, buttery, garlic and parsley delights. Priced most everywhere at around ten euros a dozen, when splitting with friends you’re able to get a small taste of these little creatures for a reasonable two to five euros each.

In the fifteenth arrondissement, south of the Seine, sits a small French restaurant named the Buron Café. One afternoon my friend and I sat outside and enjoyed ravioles ricotta épinards, ricotta and spinach ravioli. A simple pasta with olive oil, shavings of parmesan, and shoots of spinach, it was nevertheless one of my favorite meals while in Paris. And of course, as always, it was accompanied by bread (complimentary) and wine (Chardonnay.) For fifteen euros, not a bad evening at all. 

Spend an evening under the Eiffel Tower and then take a ten to fifteen minute stroll to an Italian restaurant named Gusto Italia. For eighteen euros, I enjoyed the scampi et gambas risotto, a shrimp and mini-shrimp risotto with fish sauce, onions and parsley. My friends and I had a bit of an obsession with risotto for a while, and this was definitely one of our favorites.

Some things are famous for good reason, and this certainly applies to Amorino’s gelato al naturale. Paris is absolutely covered with Amorinos, but the treat pictured above comes from the Le Marais area of the fourth district. (Come here for Pride!) This particular treat includes a chocolate gelato center, a mango gelato rose and a mango macaron sitting beautifully on top. Amorino is famous for their flower technique, and their ability to fit — supposedly —as many flavors as you want into that highly celebrated rose.

• 

If I were to rank these dishes in terms of food quality, service and atmosphere, this next dish from  Pink Mamma would win every time. The pasta alle vongole (pasta with clams) was so wonderful that I had to come back another time to have it once more. The dish itself was divine, and the service extremely kind, but above all, the atmosphere was what drew me back. Dining at Pink Mamma in the early evening in summer guarantees that the large windows will bathe you in warm light, with a soft breeze swaying the plants and garlands that hang down from the ceiling. The rooms are full of paintings and jars of ingredients, and each dish is elaborately decorated as the bowl in the picture above alludes to. Walking up to the top floor is a must; going up the staircase you pass what seems like hundreds of pictures and paintings on the walls as you are again bathed in sunlight and surrounded by a variety of plants. The top floor feels more like a greenhouse than a restaurant, and offers a lovely view out of its plant-adorned windows onto the eighteenth arrondissement. Highly recommended.

 Before going to Paris, I stayed a few nights in London, England, and my very first English meal took place at the Virgin Queen in Hackney. While it was no surprise to see fish and chips on the menu, it did take me by surprise to see a vegan fish and chips! Moderately priced at £12.50, the dish includes a deep fried banana blossom coupled with a vegan tartar sauce, chips (french fries) and a pickle. The texture of a fried banana blossom perfectly matches the fall-away, tender texture of the traditional fish used for the meal, haddock. So, not only was it delicious (how could something that’s deep fried not be delicious?), it actually resembled a traditional fish and chips meal, making me feel like I wasn’t missing out by choosing the vegan option.

A note on paying for summer abroad: 
I never would have been able to study abroad this past summer without the help of scholarships and grants. Although the process can be long, I highly recommend applying for as many scholarships and grants that you can because it definitely is worth it. Two great Smith-specific opportunities are the International Experience Grant, which is tailored to study abroad experiences, and the Smith Students’ Aid Society, a wonderful resource that every student should consider. I also highly recommend the Gilman Scholarship, which is open to students receiving Federal Pell Grant funding. Gilman provides money for students to go abroad and study or intern, and all you have to do is commit to a follow-up service project to be completed on return from your experience, which can be something fun and engaging like creating a blog of your travels. The money is out there; don’t let financial worries stop you from experiencing what you want — and deserve — to experience.